When it came to developing a vegan version of the classic chocolate chip cookie, we'd settle for nothing less than perfection; the recipe had to produce a cookie that would be moist and chewy on the inside and crisp at the edges, with deep notes of toffee. We started by baking 11 popular recipes, and we were shocked at the assortment of hockey pucks in front of us. Some cookies didn't spread at all, while others melted into greasy wafers; some tasted like cardboard, while others had funky off-flavors; and some were gelatinous, while others crumbled apart. We had our work cut out for us. Starting with the test kitchen's classic recipe, we removed the egg and found that we simply didn't need a substitute for it. While many cookie recipes call for a mix of white and brown sugars, we opted to use all brown; it gave the cookies a richer flavor and its moisture provided a softer center. But tasters wanted more chew. As it turned out, to achieve a chewier cookie, we had to leave it alone. Letting the mixed dough rest for 1 to 4 hours (no longer) gives the proteins and starches in the flour a jump start at breaking down; meanwhile, the sugar dissolves, hydrates, and later retains this moisture better during baking, preventing the cookie from becoming brittle. Lastly, the surprising addition of a little almond butter added the toffee-like richness that butter typically provides a cookie.
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